Those who know Peter McAndrews, the chef behind beloved sandwich spots Paesano’s Philly Style and Modo Mio, know that subtlety isn’t really his thing. So when he opened up a Fishtown taco window earlier this month, the motto, “tacos that don’t suck” wasn’t a big shocker. From pork roll burritos to Mexican-American-Canadian poutine, here’s what you need to know about Heffe Tacos.
1. Window Service
Fishtown real estate is some of the priciest in the city. McAndrews and his partners found a great workaround by taking over a former gas station at the corner of Frankford and Marlborough and repurposing it into a walk-up taco stand complete with outdoor red picnic table seating. Don’t worry about catching a chill in the colder months; there are plenty of standing heaters ready for alfresco tacos and burritos all winter long.
2. Atypical Tacos
Puebla-style tacos have become the norm here in Philly but at Heffe, McAndrews is taking plenty of creative license with his tortilla and protein combos. In lieu of carnitas and tinga McAndrews has crafted a lineup of tacos with creative filings like the Kraken, fried octopus with spicy tomato jam and Mexican mozzarella, and a take on tongue tacos with ancho-raisin purée, cabbage and lime.
3. Big Burritos
With a penchant for over-the-top sandwiches, McAndrews’ rundown of burritos is serious. The Americano is a Philly-style breakfast burrito with pork roll, an over-easy egg, rice, beans and jack cheese. And while the menu is plenty meaty, look for a few veg-friendly items like the Betty Won’t, a quinoa burrito with sweet pea guac, roasted tomatoes and an almond chimichurri.
4. Side Action
Chips might be the go-to side for tacos and burritos but at Heffe the side game goes much deeper. A hangover-slaying bowl of menudo is on the menu here (“Hangover soup, if you need it, get it” reads the menu description) as well as a chicken corn chowder and a take on chili cheese fries dubbed Mexican Poutine.
5. Last Call
Fishtown streets are packed on weekends after the bars close their doors; Heffe is fully prepared for the crowds with 3 AM closing times on Friday and Saturday nights. We’re pretty sure that the Fat Man, a crispy chicken burrito with bacon, rice and beans and American cheese, will not only have you sleeping soundly but feeling a little more human upon waking up the morning after.